Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
